Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Chardonnay 'La Montagne' 2023

‘Côte de Nuits-Villages is an amazing and underrated appellation’ says Camille Thiriet, her face lighting up. Taste her wines and it’s impossible to disagree. Theoretically, Côte de Nuits-Villages sits just above Bourgogne at the lower end of Burgundy’s hierarchy. But the way Camille works - organic farming of old vines, with each tiny parcel vinified separately - produces brilliant wines that belie their humble status. Her various Bourgogne and Côte de Nuits-Villages cuvées are better than many more illustrious Burgundies, no matter what the label might say.

Camille’s vineyards are around the villages of Comblanchien and Corgolin, just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. She and her partner Matt Chittick now farm six hectares in total, across various scattered plots. Winemaking is simple, with wild yeast fermentations and minimal sulphur. The mentorship of Bernard Noblet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's retired chef de cave, has helped them push quality up even further.

The Thiriet reds combine gorgeous whole-bunch aromas with silky tannins and fine detail, while the whites are beautifully balanced and full of energy. These are brilliant Burgundies from an exciting young producer.