Shrine to the Vine

Thierry Germain and his estate – Domaines des Roches Neuves – have become a by-word for the best biodynamic wines in Saumur-Champigny. Influenced by his time spent at Clos Rougeard, Thierry is known for his meticulous farming and low-interventionist winemaking. These are deliciously pure and finessed, and unmissable for fans of Cabernet Franc.

‘Clos de L’Échelier’ 2015 is a 2.5ha enclosed plot of 40-year-old vines on clay and limestone terraces. Vibrant and fleshy with Chambolle-esque berry fruit and smoky, mineral complexity, it is a shining example of site-specific Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. The 2015 is rich and silky and, at the same time, exceptionally juicy, with structure for long-term ageing.

‘La Marginale’ 2016 – a blend of 45-year-old parcels in Chacé and Varrains – is produced only in tiny amounts in the finest vintages. After spending 18-24 months in large barrels and now with 6 years in bottle, it offers bright, summery fruit and floral tones alongside a mineral-rich palate. Seductive Bordeaux-meets-Loire Cabernet Franc from a modern master.