Rion Bourgogne Rouge 'Les Bons Batons' 2013

While working as winemaker at his father’s Domaine Daniel Rion, Patrice and his wife Michèle quietly set up their own side project in 1990 with just two wines: a sumptuous and intensely flavoured Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’ and – an insider secret – Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Bons Batons’.

Coming from a 0.6ha vineyard just over the road from Chambolle-Musigny (neighbouring Ghislaine Barthod) and planted 40 years ago with Pinot Noir cuttings from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, ‘Les Bons Batons’ is now widely regarded as one of the best Bourgogne parcels in the Côte de Nuits.

From a purpose-built cuverie and cellar in Prémeaux-Prissey just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, Patrice and his son Maxime work with fully de-stemmed fruit that’s fermented in a combination of old and new barrels. The result is immaculate, fruit-driven wines that are never short of terroir expression.

The 2013 ‘Les Bons Batons’ is succulent and concentrated (thanks to the site’s tendency to yield small berries and Patrice’s pioneering of high trellising to aid ripening) with a silky texture and earthy undertones. 10 years to its name and firing on all cylinders – this is a snip at £30.