For aficionados of Grower Champagne, few names are as revered as Laval. The estate’s four meticulously tended hectares in Cumières became organic in 1971, after a dismayed Georges Laval learned that chemicals from farming had been detected in Arctic ice. Today, his son Vincent crafts soulful, intense, crystalline Champagnes from those same living soils. The only problem is finding them. Production is tiny and demand ferocious.