Economou Assyrtiko 2017

On Crete’s remote, sparsely inhabited Ziros Plateau, Giannis Economou produces some of Greece’s most profound, yet elusive, wines. There is no website, no social media presence and no signpost to guide would-be buyers to the winery. Years can go by with no word, and no wine appearing. But despite their scarcity, these brilliant wines have established an international reputation. An Economou release is a rare event, and no true wino will want to miss out.

Economou's garagiste-style winery is crammed with barrels and tanks of every possible shape, size and material. With each vintage, he experiments with dozens of wines, all harvested, extracted, or aged in different ways. Vessels are moved from one spot to another, sometimes to various outbuildings or into the open air, as conditions seem to dictate.

To the outsider lucky enough to be granted access, it's bewildering - but Giannis is master of it all. An uncompromising perfectionist, he assembles a final blend from one or more varieties to be bottled and released when ready – usually after many years. The result is an ever changing range of singular wines that reflect their maker - idiosyncratic and complex, with flashes of genius.