Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1995
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"I can't recall a single instance of tasting a Clos des Papes falling short of expectations. Essentially, these wines are expressive and savoury, exhibiting aromatic complexity, firm structure, and ample depth." (Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous)
In France’s least hipster appellation, one domaine stands apart. While Châteauneuf-du-Pape picked up a reputation in the 1990s for headache-inducing levels of alcohol and new-oak gloss, Clos des Papes has always produced beautifully balanced and immensely comforting bottles.
After honing his winemaking skills at Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux and Bandol's Domaine Ott, Paul-Vincent Avril joined his father at the family property in 1988. Now in his 36th vintage, he has been consistently raising the bar, farming organically and maintaining tiny yields (especially in relation to many of his neighbours) to produce just one red and one white cuvée.
Characterised by finesse and freshness for the southern Rhône, the estate’s red contains high proportions of Mourvèdre and Cinsault (a variety seeing increased interest in the appellation), which lend a bright, wild, peppery edge to the velvety texture and sweet fruit of the Grenache and Syrah (as well as a smattering of the remaining permitted varieties). Made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, and friends, the white's heady fragrance and opulent texture is balanced by supple acidity and salty freshness.
Black plums, earth, garrigue, chocolate – while it's gained glorious weight with age, it still remains focused and pure. 96 points, Wine Spectator.
|Clos des Papes
|Cinsault, Counoise, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah