Telmo Rodriguez 'Falcoeira Branco' 2020

Once the enfant terrible of the Spanish fine wine scene, Telmo Rodríguez is now established as one of Spain’s most successful artisan producers.

For the last 20 years, Telmo and his business partner Pablo Eguzkiza’s strategy has been to work with local vignerons in the most promising areas of Spain to produce good low-cost wines, before identifying the finest vineyards available to make high-quality cuvées across Rioja, Galicia, Malaga, the Gredos Mountains, Rueda, and Alicante.

In 2002, Telmo – a student of some of the 20th century’s finest winemakers, including Gérard Chave, Auguste Clape, and Eloi Dürrbach at Trévallon – began working with growers in Galicia’s Bibei Valley for his Ladeiras do Xil project.

From vineyards that took over a decade to restore, Telmo produces a highly-coveted collection of low-yielding, single-site wines structured around a framework akin to Burgundy’s Crus. If, like us, you prize wine’s rare ability to combine restrained power with delicacy and finesse, these are essential bottles.

A blend of Godello, Doña Branca, and Palomino from an ancient 0.45ha “Grand Cru” terrace – which took over a decade to reclaim – 400-600m above the Bibei River in Santa Cruz. A focused, mineral-rich palate layered with herbs – this drinks like liquid granite... in the best way.!  678 bottles produced. 95 Points, Robert Parker.