Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Aligoté 2023

For anyone refused admission to Burgundy’s sainted 1er and Grand Crus, Sylvain Pataille’s ordinarily priced wines scale the heights. Whether you love or loathe his distinctive blue labels (we love ‘em), no one has done more for the reputation of Marsannay. A trained oenologist who consults for other elite Burgundian domaines, Pataille has accumulated 15ha of organic and biodynamic vines since starting out with a single hectare in 1999, producing delicious, accessible Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté using indigenous yeasts and minimal added sulphur. But the secret’s long been out: getting hold of these bottles is getting increasingly difficult with each vintage.