Domaine Thibert Cremant de Bourgogne Brut 2008

Domaine Thibert has long been a favourite source of reliable, well-priced white Burgundy. But when we tasted a selection of mature vintages, we were amazed. These wines from the relatively humble Mâconnais region, south of the Côte d’Or’s more renowned vineyards, are almost always drunk young. Yet after years of careful cellaring these bottles were showing beautifully. Still fresh, they had taken on a mellowness and complexity rarely seen at this level. They have no right to be this good.

Domaine Thibert is a family estate based in the village of Fuissé. Until the 1990s, when Christophe Thibert joined the business, the family sold all their grapes to other wineries. In the decades since, they have expanded their vineyard holdings, improved the quality of their farming, and bottle all their own wines. For years now, they have quietly and consistently made excellent wines with a sense of place. Most drinkers would never think to keep these wines, but with age they are a revelation. Far from being tired, they’re full of energy, and life.