López de Heredia Rioja Crianza 'Viña Cubillo' 2016

López de Heredia is nothing if not a family business. Having been handed down through four generations to its present custodians María José, her sister Mercedes, and brother Julio, its old-school philosophy and elegant, long-lived Riojas have remained steadfast through war, fashion, and new technologies.

Set up during a boom for supplying a French market whose own vineyards had been ravaged by phylloxera, María José’s great-grandfather, Rafael, took inspiration from influential Bordeaux châteaux and purchased sites around Haro based on their suitability to emulate the regions that his new Gallic clientele base admired most. Today, Tondonia remains arguably Rioja’s greatest estate.

From a 24ha plot that could produce Gran Reserva-quality wines, but the family use it for their Crianza. An excellent vintage for Cubillo – less warm than the 2015, the 2016 shows appealing moderation in its alcohol and ripeness. In a primary, spice-heavy phase at the moment, this is hands down one of the tastiest and best value for money Rioja Crianzas out there. 94 points, Wine Advocate