Pirata da Viúva Tinto Castelão 2022

In the 1930s, Collares was one of Europe's most prestigious wine regions. Today, just 22ha of its ungrafted old vines remain, planted on sandy dunes in Lisbon's backyard. Rising land prices have tempted many locals to sell their vineyards to developers, and the difficulty of growing grapes here has contributed to the shift to tourism. But Adega Viúva Gomes – run by father and son José and Diogo Baeta – shows that Collares still deserves to be revered.

Collares is famously long-lived, and Viúva Gomes hold slowly dwindling stocks of vintages dating back to the 1960s, which they release in tiny quantities after long maturation in oak and bottle. They are rare treasures, with a savoury complexity from up to half a century in the family cellars. With annual production for the whole appellation down to a microscopic 6,500L, it’s little wonder that the official Collares wine bottle is now 500ml, while the vintages from the 1960s hold a relatively generous 650ml.

In addition to their classic red and white Collares, José and Diogo craft brilliant modern interpretations of the region's terroirs, from new plantings of Malvasia de Colares and Castelão. Their 'Viticultores' wines are declassified 'village' wines, and include grapes from other trusted growers. Their 'Crus' are from particularly special sites, and 'Pirata' is their more experimental label - a means of exploring the region's terroir, and identifying the Crus of the future.