Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru 'Les Caillerets' 2006

Burgundy’s superlative Domaine Michel Lafarge produces a magical portfolio of Pinot Noirs built for the long haul. “Needs more time” is a common observation of Lafarge’s famously slow-evolving wines, which, while unforgiving and highly tannic in youth, transform into perfumed, silken-textured beauties with age.

Michel sadly passed away in 2020 at the age of 91, but the estate is now in the talented hands of his son Frédéric and granddaughter Clothilde. They farm 12ha of vines (converted to biodynamics in 1996) across Beaune, Pommard, Meursault, and the Côte-de-Beaune-Villages, although it’s the domaine’s Volnays – the 1er Crus ‘Clos des Chênes’ and monopole ‘Clos du Château des Ducs’ in particular – that set the benchmark for Pinot Noir from the Côte de Beaune.

A difficult vintage (and hence overlooked) for Burgundy, which Lafarge deftly outmanoeuvred. Deep and spicy fruit with a stony mineral spine. Creamier and juicier than expected for 2006. 90+ Points, Vinous.