Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin 'La Platière' Vieilles Vignes 2017

Without a website or sign-post to his cellar door, Michel Guillard runs one of Gevrey-Chambertin’s last hidden gems.

Founded in 1913 by Jeanne Lyonnet – a housekeeper who saved enough money to purchase her first vines – the domaine gradually acquired a share in some of the appellation’s most coveted 1er Crus, including ‘Les Corbeaux’, ‘Poissenot’, and ‘Lavaux-Saint-Jacques’.

In 1979, Jeanne’s grandson Michel took over the family’s 4.8ha of low-yielding, organically farmed plots. From a cramped cellar under the family home, Michel crafts just a few dozen barrels of Pinot Noir each year, untouched by trends or passing fads. Fermented at low temperatures and partially aged in new oak, they are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Densely perfumed and brooding in youth, Guillard’s wines show a pronounced griotte cherry character layered with incense and earthy minerality after 7-10 years in bottle. From 60-to-85-year-old vines, ‘La Platière’ offers a heady perfume and silky texture. 1er Cru ‘Les Corbeaux’ is detailed and intense, while Guillard’s jewel, 1er Cru ‘Lavaux Saint-Jacques’, is muscular and spicy, both delivering serious ageing potential.

A domaine that has largely flown under the radar of the critics, Guillard’s wines are yet to catch up with Burgundy’s escalating prices – as illustrated by this parcel from the excellent 2017 vintage.

Brooding with black cherry and woodsmoke. Silky and elegant. Drink to 2030.