Grange Saint-Sauveur 'Huguette' 2020

Loire reds are some of the most expressive, intellectually stimulating, and soul-satisfying bottles in the cellar, but they’re rarely admitted into the upper echelons of ‘fine wine’. Stopping us in our tracks at a recent tasting, Grange Saint-Sauveur makes an excellent case for admission.

Cellarmaster at La Tour du Bon in Bandol from 1994 to 2006, Antoine Pouponneau worked as oenologist at Corsica’s leading domaine, Clos Canarelli, where his expertise balancing microbiology with low-intervention winemaking drew the attention of some seriously prestigious clients, including Château Latour and Cheval Blanc.

Now, Antoine and his wife Alice have taken over 6.5ha of vineyards (including 80-to-100-year-old vines) in Le Thoureil, between Angers and Saumur in the Loire Valley.

Using biodynamics and a horse-drawn plough, they farm Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Pineau d’Aunis, and Gamay to craft wines which marry gorgeously spicy, wild red fruit characters with silky textures and juicy acidity.

Although made outside of the local appellations’ strict rules and therefore labelled as ‘humble’ Vin de France, the wines of this promising young domaine are worthy of attention.

Deeply layered with plums, rhubarb, and earthy minerals. Minty freshness. So intense and youthful right now, but with a long future.