Roger Coulon ‘Esprit de Vrigny’ 1er Cru NV

Roger Coulon is a Champagne grower on the eve of stardom. With each release the plaudits grow and excitable comparisons are now being made to elite growers like Egly-Ouriet and Selosse.

Eric and Isabelle – the 8th generation of the Coulon family – tend vines in 1er and Grand Cru sites around the villages of Vrigny in the Montagne de Reims and Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs. Assisted by their children Louise and Edgar, they use an organic (and increasingly regenerative) approach to farm 11ha of ungrafted, old vine Pinot Meunier, in addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Pressed at low pressures and fermented with native yeasts, Coulon’s wines undergo extended time on lees before disgorgement and bottling with low dosage. The result is an assortment of intensely flavoured, vinous Champagnes with rich textures and tingling acidity.

Inspired by his time working with Philippe Pacalet and Fredéric Cossard in Burgundy, Edgar produces just a few barrels of Coteaux Champenois – Champagne’s still wine category developing real excitement amid a backdrop of climate change. Made from Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, they offer whole-bunch perfumes and pure fruit flavours.

With Coulon’s latest releases receiving impressive reviews from the critics and the demand for Grower Champagnes showing little sign of slowing down, these bottles are not to be missed.

Orchard fruit and sweet spice – supple and crowd-pleasing. 93 Points, Vinous