France’s Jura is a region with a feverish following. A patchwork of subalpine smallholdings and artisanal domaines that focus on expressing the region’s different terroirs, it has many similarities with what makes neighbouring Burgundy so exciting.
Domaine Tissot was founded in 1962 and is now run by Stéphane Tissot, who has steered it towards quality-first, biodynamic winemaking. A pioneering vigneron with a passion for experimentation, a few hours with him is the fast-track to understanding Jurassic terroir.
Stéphane explained to us how he produces distinct expressions of Chardonnay from the region’s limestone and clay soils: ‘Les Graviers’ – a racy, mineral wine grown on limestone; and ‘Les Bruyères’ – a fuller wine with smoky, reductive minerality from a sunny, clay-marl outcrop.
Both wines have the freshness and clarity that characterise Tissot’s style, making them in demand with sommeliers and almost impossible to find outside of restaurants. Tasting them side-by-side is a fascinating study in appreciating their differences and their brilliance.
Tissot Chardonnay ‘Les Graviers’ 2018 (£41) Sold out
From seven limestone-rich vineyards planted between 1952 and 2002. Racy and elegant, layered with spiced lemon and apple notes with a fine, chalky minerality.
Tissot Chardonnay ‘Les Bruyères’ 2018 (£41) Sold out
A 40-to-80-year-old single-vineyard cuvée grown on south-facing clay soils. Textural and weighty, showing smoky nuances and reductive, struck match minerality.
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