Place of Changing Winds Syrah 'Harcourt' 2022

What importer-turned-vigneron Robert Walters is doing at Place of Changing Winds is remarkable.

As the Melbourne based Australian agent for some of France’s top growers, such as Domaine Hubert Lamy’s Olivier Lamy, Walters is pioneering similar methods (such as high-density plantings) to try and fast-track a sense of place in his wines.

In 2012, Walters established Place of Changing Winds in the foothills of Mt Macedon. Across a 3.1ha site surrounded by forest, he has planted an astonishing 45,000 vines at various densities – the highest of which is 33,000 per ha – to promote competition between plants and deeper root systems, producing lower yields of intensely flavoured grapes.

Learning first-hand that changes in farming can lead to extraordinary wines, Walters has developed organic techniques specifically adapted to his estate. Fruit is hand-picked before fermentation and ageing in Stockinger barrels in a cellar next to the vineyard.

Designed to wow top-end Burgundy drinkers, Walters’ ‘Beyond the Forest’ Pinot Noir shows intoxicating aromas of berry fruits and complex spices, while ‘Between Two Mountains’ Pinot Noir is sleek and luxurious like a great Volnay with a silky texture.

Walters also crafts two Syrahs from vineyards north of Mt Macedon: ‘Heathcote’ offers dark, spicy fruit from its red Cambrian soils, whereas ‘Harcourt’ – grown on granite and fermented with 50% whole bunches – is open and floral.

Finally, Walters’ astonishing ‘Tradition’ wines combine Pinot Noir with Syrah and Chardonnay with Marsanne, resulting in two beautifully distinctive and compelling cuvées that knit together the unique characters of each grape variety and terroir.

Place of Changing Winds is redefining what makes a great Australian wine.

Cherry and raspberry with pressed flowers – incredibly delicate, yet nicely chewy. 93 Points, Wine Advocate