Twenty years ago, Santorini and its Assyrtiko grape were the insider secret of the wine world. They’re still great wines, but word is definitely out, so we should thank the wine gods that there’s another Greek island with its own world class variety that remains under the radar. Surrounded by the glittering turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea, Cephalonia (or Kefalonia) is the home of Robola, a grape that thrives in the island's limestone soils and, in the hands of a quality-minded producer like Panos Sarris, gives some of the most exciting mineral-driven white wines in the Mediterranean.
Robola of Cephalonia is not unknown - it has long been served by the carafe in tavernas across Greece - but it's only in recent years that a handful of high quality producers have come to the fore. That’s where Panos Sarris comes in; a former sommelier who returned to his native Cephalonia and set up his winery in 2016, Panos farms his old vines organically and follows a distinctly artisanal approach to winemaking.
Panos’s Robola vineyards are planted up to 700m above sea level, including a two acre plot of ungrafted 65 year old vines that is bottled separately as his flagship ‘Panochori’, one of the most complex and ageworthy white wines in Greece. Fermentations are spontaneous and there is minimal fining and filtration. The Robolas are beautifully expressive, brimming with energy and clarity, and combining saline freshness with a delicious citrus tang.
While Robola of Cephalonia is sure to become the next big hit for Greek wine, for now these characterful wines still offer extraordinary value for money, especially from a winemaker as skilful and talented as Panos Sarris.
