Richard Leroy’s sublime, vital Chenin Blancs defy easy categorisation. The powers that be don’t seem to know what to make of them, classifying them variously as sweet Coteaux-du-Layon, dry Anjou, and finally settling on plain old ‘Vin de France’. It doesn’t matter - they are some of the region’s greatest wines, and allocations are absolutely miniscule. Buy on sight!
