“My ambition is to make a Gamay that's among the world’s 50 best wines,” Fabien Duperray told us once. If most vignerons had said it, we’d be sceptical. But as the agent representing many of Burgundy’s top domaines, including DRC and Coche-Dury, Fabien truly knows fine wine, and what it takes to make it. The reds he produces under the name ‘Jules Desjourneys’ are some of the most ambitious in Beaujolais.
Most of the time, Beaujolais is simple, light and easy-drinking. Nothing wrong with that, and the Jules Desjourneys wines retain much of the freshness that makes Gamay so immediately appealing. But they are deeper than almost any other Beaujolais out there, with a harmony and structure akin to fine Burgundy.
A look at the vineyards and it begins to make sense. Fabien’s vines are in Beaujolais’ top crus - Fleurie, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent and Chénas. They are very old (some date back 140 years), and farmed according to biodynamic principles. As a result, yields are very low and quality sky high. In the winery, the entire focus is on making the most balanced, age-worthy wines possible from this rare old vine fruit, with ageing in custom-made glass vessels and stainless steel tanks. Jules Desjourneys reds are immediately appealing, but gain complexity with age.
