Jamet

Working Domaine Jamet’s vineyards is not for the faint-hearted. There are multiple steep, rocky terraces scattered high up in the hills. Everything must be done by hand. But it’s the variety of this spectacular terroir with its wealth of very old vines that helps make Jamet’s Côte-Rôtie the pinnacle of the appellation.

Jean-Paul Jamet worked his first vintage with his father in 1967. Since then, he has been old-school Côte-Rôtie’s greatest champion, holding out against trends that have come and gone. For him, the greatest expression of Côte-Rôtie is traditionally made and carefully blended from multiple plots, some bringing structure, some bringing elegance, but together making a greater whole. While those around him were releasing big ranges of single site cuvées, Jean-Paul chose to put his flagship blend first, only bottling a Côte-Brune separately when it wasn’t needed for the main wine. Evocative, smoky and floral, Jamet’s Côte-Rôtie is not just a benchmark for the Northern Rhône, but for Syrah full stop.

Jean-Paul’s wife Corinne has worked alongside him for many years, and more recently their son Loïc and daughter Fanny have taken an increasingly central role. Meanwhile, the winemaking has remained old-fashioned in the best possible way. There is no destemming, and ageing takes place in traditional oak demi-muids.

Across the range, quality is sky-high. Jamet’s 100% Syrah Côtes-du-Rhône bests the Côte-Rôtie of many lesser properties, while the two single site wines that are made in some vintages (from very special, tiny parcels in Côte-Brune and more recently La Landonne) are among France’s greatest reds. There is also an excellent Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc, and now an outstanding Condrieu - ‘Vernillon’ - from vines in two of the best vineyards, Chatillon and Vernon.