Giovanni Canonica Barolo 'Paiagallo' 2020

Browsing for places to stay in Barolo, you might come across the Agriturismo il Quarto Stato - three simple rooms in the heart of the village for 70 Euros a night. The only indication that wine is also made here are a few photos of barrels. Yet it’s in the small cellar beneath this unassuming guest house that the owner, Gianni Canonica, crafts tiny quantities of three Nebbiolos that have attained cult status. They are among Barolo’s best, most wanted, and hard to find wines.

About 6,000 bottles of Canonica are produced each year, from two small plots. There are two Barolos - one from 50+ year old vines in Grinzane, and one from Paiagallo, a vineyard high above the village. A Langhe Nebbiolo is made from selected vines across both sites. Canonica’s wines are old-school, with organic farming, long wild yeast fermentations in old oak, and ageing in Slovenian oak and cement. They are true, handmade examples of Nebbiolo from its greatest terroir, with power, fragrance and ageing potential that puts them in the top tier.

The guest house doesn’t need to advertise these wines. What little is released instantly disappears, to be fought over on the secondary market.

Paiagallo is the original Canonica Barolo, from a 1.5 hectare vineyard high above the village.