After Dirk Niepoort – one of Portugal's most important wine innovators, who inspired a new generation to farm conscientiously and seek freshness and authenticity – introduced Vitor Claro to some of the world's greatest wines, Claro gave up a career as head chef of his burgeoning restaurant empire to pursue a life of winemaking.
In 2010, Vitor and his wife Rita Ferreira set up Dominó, 2.5ha of old vineyards in Portalegre, in the cool, northernmost reaches of the Alentejo. When his oenologist let him down on the eve of his first harvest, Vitor called Dirk for advice. "It's the best thing that could happen to you," Dirk told him. "You don't need an oenologist – they would only spoil it. Make it simple, make it pure."
Combining his culinary intuition with a low-intervention approach, Vitor crafts deliciously vibrant wines from field blends of indigenous white and red grape varieties – Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Arinto and Muscat among them.
Fermented with whole bunches in stainless steel and aged in old French barrels for 12 months, 'Foxtrot' is a juicy, elegant red with floral and herbal nuances. 'Fonte Fria' – from 80-year-old vines surrounding the winery – offers layers of dark fruit with mineral depth and mountain freshness.
Buoyed by their success in Alentejo, Vitor and Rita helped to re-establish a beautiful 2ha vineyard in the obscure appellation of Carcavelos, a historic wine region in Lisbon's backyard that has been brought back from the brink. From south-facing Castelão and Touriga Nacional vineyards, 'Samarra' marries a spicy floral character with a supple, silky texture.
