Michel Gonet’s limited release ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ combines Grand Cru fruit from one of the most distinguished lieu dits in Champagne with the talents of two rockstar winemakers.
Great strides have been made at Gonet since Michel’s daughter Sophie took over and enlisted the help of Marco Pelletier, owner of Paris’ celebrated Vantre restaurant and current vigneron at Bordeaux’s idiosyncratic Domaine de Galouchey.
Now Marco has teamed up with his Champagne-obsessed pal Raj Parr, another acclaimed former sommelier turned winemaker behind the Burgundian-inspired projects Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte in California.
The duo have isolated the best fruit from Gonet’s vineyard jewel ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, arguably the most important Grand Cru village on the Côte des Blancs slope. This chalk-rich terroir is famed for its Chardonnay, epitomised by sublime bottles such as Salon ‘Le Mesnil’, Krug ‘Clos du Mesnil’, and Pierre Peters’ ‘Les Chétillons’.
Spending 60 months on the lees before disgorgement, ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ is bottled without dosage. Akin to taut white Burgundy with bubbles, it crackles with vibrant energy. Elegant and poised, Le Mesnil’s signature chalky minerality cuts through the pure citrus fruit and subtle toasty character.
Just 300 cases of ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ were produced – these 42 bottles represent the entire UK retail allocation.
Michel Gonet Le Mesnil Grand Cru ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ 2016 (£94) Sold out
Bone-dry, this is layered with notes of citrus oil, toasted almonds, baked bread, and white flowers. Its pillow-soft texture and savoury richness is balanced by bright, framing acidity and chalky minerality. It should gain weight and power over the next decade.
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