Camille Thiriet has established herself as one of the most exciting and authentic young winemakers in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits and, with the assistance of her partner Matt Chittick, she is redefining what can be expected from the region’s less prestigious appellations.
Camille’s focus is on farming impeccable fruit from her old vineyards around Comblanchien in the Côte de Nuits-Villages AOC, which she calls “an amazing, underrated, and unknown appellation”, but she also sources grapes from a network of trusted organic farmers in Vézelay (near Chablis), Volnay, and even the Jura.
Drawing upon her experience at Domaine de la Côte in California and Matt’s role as winemaker at Domaine de Villaine (not to mention the mentorship of Bernard Noblet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s retired chef de cave), Camille vinifies each of her tiny parcels separately in a micro-winery behind the Château de Comblanchien, which her parents operate as a B&B. Grapes are pumped over, crushed under foot, and go into a ratchet press, with bottling, labelling, and waxing all done by hand.
Thiriet’s stylish Bourgogne Chardonnay ‘Cuvée Confidentielle’ and sensual Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Aux Montagnes’ are the domaine’s impressive flagships, punching well above their humble appellations. The first time we tasted them was when famed American sommelier Daniel Johnnes sent over glasses for our table to taste blind while dining in the same restaurant in Beaune – their silken texture and gorgeous fruit had us convinced they were 1er Crus.
As well as her seriously accomplished Vézelay ‘Champs Cervin’ and ‘Aligoté du Jardin’ whites, Thiriet’s other Côte de Nuits-Villages reds – ‘Les Retraits’ and ‘Deslandes’ – combine a gorgeous whole-bunch perfume with the same silky tannin and refined minerality.
Already recognised as a star in the making by wine writers Jancis Robinson and Jasper Morris, the quality of Camille’s wines – not to mention their desirability – is skyrocketing with each vintage and bottles are only going to get harder to find.
Thiriet ‘Aligoté du Jardin’ 2020 (£50) Sold out
Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc ‘Cuvée Confidentielle’ 2020 (£60) Sold out
Thiriet Vézelay ‘Champs Cervin’ 2020 (£65) Sold out
Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Deslandes’ 2020 (£68) Sold out
Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Aux Montagnes’ 2020 (£75) Sold out
Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Les Retraits’ 2020 (£94) Sold out
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