Bruno Clair Marsannays (2017)
Having cemented Marsannay as a source of serious and ageworthy wines that offer great value, Domaine Bruno Clair’s classically-styled white and red Burgundies are now scaling the quality ladder under the next generation.
Bruno started his domaine in 1979 with smallholdings in Marsannay, Fixin, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. Following the break-up of his family’s now-cult Clair-Daü estate in the 1980s, Bruno was entrusted with an impressive array of vineyards across some of the most prized appellations in the Côte de Nuits, including Grands Crus Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Bonnes-Mares.
Since coming under the care of Bruno’s sons Arthur and Edouard and daughter Margaux, the 23ha Clair estate has recently been transformed with the introduction of organic farming, stricter yields, and the use of cover crops between the vines, as well as whole-cluster fermentations in the winery.
The domaine’s ‘Les Longeroies’ Blanc – from one of the best vineyard sites in Marsannay and a prime candidate for elevation to 1er Cru status – is full of buttery yellow fruit and balanced by saline inflections and mineral drive.
From a south-east-facing site planted between 1969 and 1976 at the top of the Marsannay slope, ‘Les Vaudenelles’ Rouge offers high-toned red cherry fruit and complex floral overtones alongside lacy tannins.
This small parcel of the domaine’s single-site 2017 Marsannays is one of those rare finds: critically-acclaimed Burgundy from an excellent vintage and with bottle age – at a sensible price!
Marsannay Blanc ‘Les Longeroies’ 2017 (£35)
“A very well-defined bouquet, powdered basalt-infused fruit. Plenty of energy, and great precision and brightness on the mineral-driven finish. This is seriously fine Marsannay.” Neal Martin, Vinous
Marsannay Rouge ‘Les Vaudenelles’ 2017 (£35)
“A well-defined, crisp, and slightly leafy bouquet. Medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite gentle in the mouth, and an herbaceous, open finish. Just a delight.” Neal Martin, Vinous
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