Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru 'Clos des Ducs' 2002

Few domaines resonate more with Burgundy lovers than Marquis d’Angerville, a masterclass in Volnay terroir.

The estate rose to prominence in the early 20th century under Sem d’Angerville – a pioneer of domaine bottling and an instrumental figure in the creation of Burgundy’s appellation classifications. Sem’s son Jacques cemented the property’s reputation as one of the superstars of the Côte de Beaune, overseeing 52 vintages until his premature death.

Taking over in 2003, Guillaume d’Angerville modernised the winery and introduced biodynamics, while retaining his father’s meticulous non-interventionist approach in the cellar. Alongside viticulturalist François Duvivier, he oversees 14ha of vineyards spread between eight 1er Cru lieux dits in Volnay.

D'Angerville’s ‘Champans’ lieu dit constitutes two parallel plots which extend down the hill, taking advantage of the multi-faceted characteristics of this terroir. Rich and powerful, with flavours of dark fruit, liquorice, and exotic spice, ‘Champans’ is more easily approachable in youth and begins to unfurl after five years in bottle.

The jewel in the crown is the 2ha ‘Clos des Ducs’ monopole – steep and high by Burgundy standards, it benefits from the double exposure of morning light and afternoon sun. Tightly coiled in youth, ‘Clos des Ducs’ shows a distinct mineral character and firm structure, requiring at least a decade to coax out its intoxicating perfume and silky texture.

Gorgeous red fruit off-set by peppery spice. Silky and slow-building. Outstanding. Drink to 2035.